We were let off the boat here in Estonia's capital from 10:00 am
to 4:00 pm and took a shuttle bus from the cruise ship dock to the edge of the
medieval walled city up on the hill. Lene rode back (round trip bus fare $10.00)
but because the Maritime Museum was half way back, I walked.
We were without the company of our companions, Mike and Linda.
Her broken wrist was causing increasing pain so they went to a Tallinn doctor
who replaced her hard cast with
a soft one at a ridiculously low price, by US standards.
In town Lene and I took a free two hour walking tour led by
students or recent graduates of the local University who majored in
"Cultural Theory".
She spoke with flawless English, quite engagingly,
with humor about Estonia's tangled history of centuries of occupations by Scandinavian nations, Tzarist and most recently communist Russia and with a
briefer time under Hitler. Its current period of freedom, since the early
1990's, is the longest in its history, and while it has a sizable Russian
speaking minority, this history makes it highly unlikely that they will seek
"protection" from Vlad Putin.
The huge freighter load of logs we saw come in at Warnemunde
likely was loaded in Tallinn, lumber being Estonia's chief export. While
Lutherans form the largest organized religion, they are a minority in a nation
which is overwhelmingly secular or as our guide called them Athiests. As a
result, many of the large churches whose spires dot the skyline, are now
museums. LOTS of towers:
Small one with Lene |
This one is called Look Into the Kitchen |
Estonia's independence was won in "The Singing
Revolution". The nation has huge mass organized singing festivals, but under
Russia only government approved songs were allowed. But in the year in
question, at the end of the officially approved program the crowd broke out in
uncontrollable spontaneous leaderless disapproved anthems of freedom. The
Russian army chose not to mow down the crowd and victory was won. There is a
bas-relief sculpture honoring Boris Yeltzin.
Here is Freeedom Square and next the top of a huge glass cross dedicated to freedom.
Trip Advisor gave our daily tour exceptionally high praise and it
covered the same sights that Celebrity sold for $45 per person. We happily gave
our guide €10,
about $13.50, as a tip. So with $20 as bus fare, it cost us a total of $33.50
instead of the $90 that Celebrity was charging.
I bought a small bottle of Vana Tallinn, the local 90 proof
Estonian Liqueur, but our guide warned us that the local specialty, amber, is
all imported.
I am a sucker for Maritime Museums, and I have to admit that
Tallinn's was not the best I have visited. Built with a modern concrete
structure inside the shell of a medieval tower, it sought to cover fishing and
caning, military, freight, cruise ships and sailboats from prehistoric times to
the present and while part was in Estonian and English, the history of the
Estonian-Russian naval war of 1918-20 was in Estonian and Russian, which left
me ignorant of this obscure chapter in world history. Here is our ship from the rooftop of the museum, where they have a nice cafe.
After the steam room we took in our first show. It told a new
story of a couple overcoming obstacles to their marriage, consisting almost
exclusively in 1980s pop songs and set in Wonderland and Oz. Whimsical fun with
high production value. Then another great dinner aboard.
Hi!
ReplyDeleteLovely post :)
If you're into maritime museums you should check out the one at the Seaplane Harbour http://lennusadam.eu/en/ It was opened in 2012 and it's really cool.