Day 39, July 26 -- Crammond Islands to Eskasoni -- 29 NM

We could have gone to Eskasoni before the Crammonds but the passage between them, either way, would be the longest of our passages in the Lakes, between its east and west bays. I chose the visit Crammonds first so that we could go east for this passage, with the expected prevailing southwesterlies behind us. But no wind today so we motored most of the way.

Elkasoni is an Indian Reservation on the north shore of East Bay, sheltered by The Indian Islands, an archipelago of small islands with a sinuous passage threaded through them with two spots of skinny water that Lene, operating the chart plotter navigated us through by instructions to me: "ten degrees to port," etc.  She made a perfect approach to fishing dock where no help was available. Bennett and I jumped off, secured the boat and put out our fenderboard to protect ILENE's hull from the rough dock face.
We had signed up to take the "Cultural Journey" the next day, a very interesting docent led tour of Goat Island (the east-west island in the NE corner nearest to our dock).

Bobbie was our guide assisted by others at each of the stations at which various aspects of the lives of the Mi'kmaq tribe of Native Americans.  we learned that by treaty rights the Mi'kmaqs are dual citizens of both the US and Canada.


We smudged, danced, made (and ate)bread on sticks,

sewed beads,

made "Bookmarks" and learned of the shelters, clothing hunting and tools of the tribe and then were given tea and bread. All this for $35 Canadian, at the senior rate. The tribe is fervently Roman Catholic and their celebration in July at Chappel Island, where we began our trip on the Lakes about three weeks ago is in honor of Saint Anne's Day, their adopted patron saint. Participation in the Cultural Journey waived the $10 daily dockage fee. Lene feared staying at an unprotected dock. A gang of kids was swimming nearby. She would have preferred anchoring in 18 feet of water in the harbor to the eight feet at the dock. But we are lucky that we docked.

The tribe's projects are supported by equal grants from the Provincial and Federal Governments. The tribe puts in the last 1/3 of the needed funds largely from its off shore commercial fishing industry. We learned this from Ken who opened the large modern building adjacent to the dock. This is not a very good picture, shot from Goat Island,  but ILENE is to the left and the office is too the right.

It houses the offices of the fishing operations and a considerable marine biology laboratory studying ways to restore the oyster industry which was eradicated by a disease accidentally imported from the Delaware River. He let us use the restrooms and dispose of our accumulated trash. He was proud of his work and introduced us to Dave, who supervises 40 tribal factory workers who process the larger claws of snow crabs. He drove us on a tour around the reservation and told us how much he admires the character of his employees and the progress they are making.  He also told us how much he misses his boat, which he sold a few years ago Bennett and I also took a tour of the plant, and came away with a bag of the most delectable frozen crab claws. Everyone we met in Eskasoni was so darned nice and friendly and generous.
Witty bade a bolt for freedom hiding in a large clump of bushes, but betrayed by the LED light on his collar.
The people here were so nice to us. One young mad came over and gave Lene a quality walking stick that his father had made. Another pointed out to us a rare sight he had never seen before: nine bald eagles floating together on as updraft above our heads. I wanted to visit Eskasoni only because it was the only place in the East Bay of the southern lake that seemed interesting. We received so much more from this visit.