Sunny and warm but I'd rather be sailing, like yesterday, but too long to go slow. We crossed the Stellwagen Banks, famous for whales, but the only one I saw on this trip was 3/4 of a mile away, through the binoculars. She or he jumped entirely out of the water to the delight, I'm sure, of the passengers on the large whale watching boat nearby. I had trained my binoculars on that boat because 1) AIS had given me the name of the boat so I knew it was a whale watching boat, 2) they usually figure our where the whales are playing and 3) the boat was stopped so I presumed they were seeing whales. We crossed the traffic separation lanes approaching Boston Harbor but saw no commercial shipping. We viewed the coast line, 15-20 miles west, but Boston's skyline, ten miles further, was obscured by the distance and the light ground haze. Witty on the prowl, toward Lene's cushioned knees.
Here in Rockport we were assigned to a floating dock closest to the Sandy Bay Yacht Club. To the left of the photo is the most photographed red fishing shack, the highlight of Rockport Mass tourism: Motif One.
Lene brought the boat to the floating dock perfectly, and our lines were caught by Tom and Tina of "Goody Two Shoes", a Gozzard 39 out of Maryland's Eastern Shore in Chesapeake Bay.
Before dinner, at a restaurant on the dock, we showered, filled our water jugs and sat around reading on the YC's front porch, overlooking this tiny packed harbor. The club does not have a restaurant but brings in catering to its small dining room. It was founded in 1885, two years after the Harlem, and is very friendly with an active vibe among its mostly mature members, With dues of only about $400 per year, it has 300 members but room for far fewer boats. So most members keep their boats in Gloucester and there is a 20 year waiting list among members for moorings in the harbor. We noticed a group in three quartets of Mah Jongg players and another group of perhaps ten women which meets on the deck overlooking the harbor to share discussion and the refreshments that they bring -- residents, summer residents and visitors, who are all friends. I told them that their group was like the Harlem's Old Salts Club but without the lunch and sailing. The Clubhouse from Motif One, with ILENE's stern.
While I often say that we like to sail, not motor, I have to confess to being a bit of a hypocrite. The lay day here was caused by a prediction that the course to Isles of Shoals would be a 21 mile beat into apparent winds with gusts to 25 knots. Some wag (provenance is disputed) said that "Gentlemen do not sail to windward." Gentlemen were apparently defined as persons of leisure, the idle rich (like us retirees) who have time to wait out the need to beat to windward. So we stayed and may have to motor when the windstorm subsides. Our floating dock is a very reasonable $43 per day, in cash, placed in an envolope in a locked box.
On the lay day I did some cooking and cleaning, some reading and writing and then, after lunch, a walking tour of the town. Lene stayed aboard to rest her sore leg. I visited its beaches, this is Front Beach from its western and eastern ends,
But most of the walk was visiting galleries and the Rockport Art Association Museum. Several stand out. One was Rusty and Ingrid where the process of artistic silk screening was performed in back and its results were sold out front by the two young women entrepreneurs: scenes from New England venues in three colors. I did some silk screening of posters announcing lectures during college and it was fun to see the process done in a professional manner. I also liked David Arsenault's work, including his take on the twin lights of Thatcher Island. His mentor was Hopper. But I spent the most time with Steven and Donald who retired from the ministry and medicine (the black and the white) to operate Decouvert Fine Art. They specialize in small drawings on paper in red pencil and charcoal from several centuries ago, the genre of Michelangelo that was exhibited at the Met last winter. We talked about many arts and sailing until I tore myself away. Dinner aboard and a cool peaceful night.