July 25 — Day 18 — Winter harbor YC to The Cow Yard in Head Harbor Island — 31 NM

 A day of great variety. After dropping off garbage and filling our fourth water bottle at the YC, I hauled the dink and we set off at 10:00 headed for the beautiful and dramatic Roque Island. We have been there three times, notably in August 2013 and August 2018, as described in posts in this blog. It’s a long sandy crescent beach and each time we met other cruisers and socialized on each other’s boats. A bright shiny cool day with wind from the SW at 10-15 knots. We used Main and small jib to beat our way  south, out of Winter Haven Bay to the tip of Schoodic Point. That is the unofficial demarcation line east of which only dedicated cruisers go. Then a bit slow in passing north of Schoodic Is., which cut off the wind. Once past the island, a straight shot to the Swash Channel through the Petite Manan Bar. Here we were making 7.5 knots on average, assisted by the eastbound rising tidal flow, with the only problem being the myriad lobster pot floats, each with its toggle. A bit easier because the tidal flow pulled the “gate” between each pair of them in a line roughly parallel to our course, rather than 25 feet wide. But having to go from “Auto” to “Standby” every few seconds destroys the usefulness of Auto. It is no longer “set it and forget it except for occasional checking on it “, but hand steering. And then that darn fog came back and spoiled the fun. I can’t describe the rocks, the lighthouses, the trees, etc.  because we didn’t see any of them.  Though the lobster pots became less frequent, they were still out there demanding close attention to duck them. And the apparent and actual wind slackened as we were turning further north. The favorable tide remained, but we had slowed to five knots and later to 1.6 knots over the ground and we decided to motor the last eight miles to Roque.

As we were driving past it, the chart showed a place called “The Cows Yard”, shaped like a small roundish pool (suggesting a corral perhaps) in Head Harbor Island, which seemed promising. The cruising guide quickly confirmed this and that entry was easy, so we went in. Upon entering, the fog temporarily lifted.  We are secure on our snubbed anchor in 18 feet of water. (I’m getting better, faster, at deploying and retrieving the snubber line, and at lowering and raising the dink.) The Yard is well protected from ocean waves and winds. The 20 foot part of the pool measures about 750 feet across and ILENE is at the smudge below the “w” in the word Cows. 

So we made 31 NM today rather than 37, and visited another new port. Traces of the fog remain in the next picture.

Our only two neighbors are power boats who entertained each other, but not us. But we did not lower our dink to welcome them so perhaps it’s our fault. As in Roque, dining aboard is the only option. And a delicious one.