"There is nothing more pleasant than cruising on a boat with the whole family."
Letter from Empress Catherine the Great

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Of f to St. Martin This Afternoon

The weather report suggests that we make the 95 mile overnight passage today, while the winds are light and from the northeast. If we leave this afternoon, after checking out in customs, in daylight, we should get in tomorrow, also in daylight. The night passage will make viewing other boats (the only "obstacles" we should see between here and there) easier than by day and the NE winds will let us go straight SE, rather than have to tack back and forth, which would add at least another 1/3 to the mileage required. The light winds will mean motoring, but that will be more pleasant for Lene than beating into big waves.
Friday I had a glorious solo sail from the Bight on Norman Island to North Cove on Virgin Gorda, to pick up Ilene from the hotel there. The wind was strong but from the SE so I was able to do the whole passage under small jib and reefed mainsail on a starboard tack, with no tacking, at speeds of up to 8.1 knots, and averaging about 6.5. I saw a squall coming, so hauled in the jib until it passed and then flew it again. On our trip to North Cove together we had passed west of the dogs, a group of islands in the middle, and this time I passed to the east of them.
I picked up the mooring in North Cove on the fourth try, cleaned up the boat a bit for Lene's benefit and then dinked in to get her and her luggage. The wifi signal from the hotel reached the moored boat so I wrote a book report to my Book Group on Edward Said's Out of Place, before leaving for the night's destination: Marina Cay. On the way we passed between The Dogs, on a single port tack, making for the trifecta of every way to get around or through these craggy islands. Marina Cay is a tiny island with a small hotel and Pussers' restaurant, which has a long reef protruding west on its south side. The reef does not cut the wind but keeps waves out of the anchorage where we joined September Song and About Time for another overpriced dinner out. The mooring field was less than 1/2 filled in contrast to other years when it would have been hard to find an emty one at that time of day. So business here is suffering along with the rest of the world.
Saturday the Harlem boys all came over for cinnamon sauteed apple filled pancakes, coffee and juice, and they brought their leftover foodstuffs so we have a lot less food to buy for a while.
We sailed to The Baths, an unusual rock formation of huge boulders at waters edge on the west (sheltered) side of the south tip of Virgin Gorda. We took a mooring for an hour, snorkeled, I went ashore to rock scramble through the boulders, showered, and then set sail for Road Town. So obviously, I am very pleased to report, Lene's sun poisoning is much better; her remaining pimples are smaller and less itchy. On the sail over I found a corner of the cockpit sheltered from the sun by the bimini cover and used a big towel for her legs.
On the sail back, the winds got so light, an unusual occurence for these parts, that we motored, filled up with diesel for the passage to St. Martin, took a Conch Charter mooring, and dined with the six Harlem guys at the Dove, an expensive restaurant, but worth it, with fine dining in an unusual setting. During our walk back to Conch we said our goodbyes to them until our return in May.

1 comment:

  1. lot's going on, i see. though i can't offer seaworthy advice, eli and i did enjoy that brief boat ride.
    we were in florida helping our children with their intense chanuka commitments such as public menora lightings, programs for senior residences etc. did you have a menora on the boat.with a little forethought, we could have had your boat with its menora at sea in COLlive (or chabadonline or something like that)where they featured interesting chanuka ideas.
    where do you get your thoughts [for the week] from? I went to look for some to return the favor: "All of your world is G-d speaking to you. Listen carefully."
    Sorry about the itchy skin. I'm always looking at these idyllic ad photos of couples at the beach and saying, no one's talking about their indigestion, headaches --or sun poisoning. Well, here's a line on struggles: "...You are a G-dly soul.Do not confuse the pain and struggle of the body with the joy and purity of the G-dly soul." both quotes by Tzvi Freeman. He has lots of good but longer ones about turbulent waters.
    gitty stolik (it'll come with another tag, cause i don't know how to work the address)

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